Supplies:

Necessary tools:

  • 28 awg wire stripper

  • Soldering Iron (preferably adjustable temperature)

  • Solder

  • Heatgun

  • Scissors

  • Tape

  • Rod 

 

Non-Necessary, but very helpful tools:

  • Helping Hands

  • Xacto knife

  • Pliers

  • Glue Gun

  • Solder Ventilation unit

  • Multimeter

Detachable Cable Guide

This guide will teach you how to make a detachable cable. Not all of these steps need to be followed to the exact degree, but this way will work. 

Step 1:

Your USB wire will arrive as one long piece of wire. Start by deciding the length of the coil, and the length of the lead that you want. As a rule of thumb, you should use 1 foot of wire for 1 in of coil. Lets say you got 12 feet of wire, and you want a 7 foot cable with a 5 foot length. Cut the 12 foot wire into those 2 lengths. 

Step 2:

Take your paracord and sleeve the individual wires. This will be hard at first, but it will get easier the more you do it. The best way to sleeve paracord is with the push pull method. This is where you push approximately 1-2 inches of paracord onto the wire, then pull the paracord along the rest of the wire. Once you have sleeved one of the wires, cut the extra length of paracord, and sleeve the other wire. Make sure that you leave about 1 inch of exposed USB wire at the end of each cable. 

Step 3:

Now you will sleeve the techflex. This can be done the same as the paracord with the push pull method. After you have sleeved the techflex, use a knife or scissor to cut of the remainder. Repeat for the second wire. 

Step 4:

Now its time to coil. Take you cable that is meant for the coil, and get your rod. Tape down one end of the cable to the rod. Electrical tape is a good way to secure it. Tightly wrap the coil around the rod making sure you don't relieve pressure. This might take you a few times, but if you feel that you have let the cable go even a little, restart from the beginning of the coil. Once you have reached the end, leave about 1-2 inches at the end of the coil. Secure this 1-2in length with tape as well. 

Step 5:

Next, you will have to heat your coil. Take a heat gun, and heat each inch of the coil for about 2 minutes continuously turning the coil. Make sure you don't bring the heat gun within 1-3 inches of the coil or you may risk burning your techflex. Once you are done, we recommend waiting 1-24 hours before unraveling your coil. 

Step 6:

Thankfully, while your coil is cooling, you can work on the straight end of the cable. You are going to want to strip the outer jacket of the exposed USB wire. This will reveal a shielding and 4 conductors. Pull the wire shielding and foil shielding back and cut that off. Now you should only see your 4 conductors. Take your 28 awg wire stripper, and strip about 1 cm of each conductor. Repeat from the begging of this step for the other side. 

Step 7:

Take your soldering iron and heat it up to 300-400 degrees Celsius. You then want to tin your individual conductors. If you do not know how to do this, please watch videos online. After tinning the conductors, you want to tin each pad on the USB-A Connector. 

Step 8:

Attach the 4 conductors to their corresponding pads on the USB-A Connector. Please refer to the pinout diagram at the bottom of this page. 

Step 9:

Attach the USB-A Housing around the connector. You will hear a click if you successfully put it on. You then need to clamp the 3 prongs on the bottom of the housing. 

Step 10:

Now, we will do the male end of the aviator. Take apart the aviator. Unscrew the male connector from the aviator housing, and slide the housing onto the cable. Make sure you also remove the clamp from the aviator. You will also want to slide one of your heatshrink pieces onto the cable. 

Step 11:

Tin both the conductors and the 4 pads on the aviator connector. 

Step 12:
Solder the conductors to their corresponding pads. Please refer to the pin out diagram at the bottom of this page. 

Step 13:

Slide the heatshrink up and shrink it around the conductors. Make sure that some of it is covering the actual cable so that you can see it once you slide up the housing. 

Step 14:
Slide up the housing of the aviator, and attach it to the male connectors. You then want to take the clamp of the aviator and screw it onto the aviator to lock it onto the cable. 

Step 15:

Once you are done waiting for the coil to cool, remove the tape and slide it off the rod. 

Step 16:

Repeat steps 6-8 for the USB-C side and repeat steps 9-14 for the female aviator side.

 

Step 17:

Test your cable before putting on the heat shrink, this will allow you to fix any errors.  If you receive a message on your computer like "Power surge", your cable is experiencing a short. You will need to double check your solder connections now. If you would like help finding the error, go to our discord and send some photos. We would be happy to help. 

Step 18:

If your cable works well. Take your final 2 pieces of heat shrink, and slide them onto the device and host side connectors. Shrink them onto the housings.

You are now done! Enjoy your new cable, and don't forget to send us some pictures on the discord! 

Non-Detachable Cable Guide

This guide will teach you how to make a non-detachable cable. Not all of these steps need to be followed to the exact degree, but this way will work. 

Step 1:

Your USB wire will arrive as one long piece of wire. Start by deciding the length of the coil, and the length of the lead that you want. As a rule of thumb, you should use 1 foot of wire for 1 in of coil.

Step 2:

Take your paracord and sleeve the individual wires. This will be hard at first, but it will get easier the more you do it. The best way to sleeve paracord is with the push pull method. This is where you push approximately 1-2 inches of paracord onto the wire, then pull the paracord along the rest of the wire. Once you have sleeved the wire, cut the extra length of paracord if there is some. Make sure that you leave about 1 inch of exposed USB wire at the end of each cable. 

Step 3:

Now you will sleeve the techflex. This can be done the same as the paracord with the push pull method. After you have sleeved the techflex, use a knife or scissor to cut of the remainder. 

Step 4:

Now its time to coil. Take you cable, and get your rod. Mark out on the rod how long you would like your coil that way you know when to stop. Tape down one end of the cable to the rod. Electrical tape is a good way to secure it. Tightly wrap the coil around the rod making sure you don't relieve pressure. This might take you a few times, but if you feel that you have let the cable go even a little, restart from the beginning of the coil. Once you have reached the end, secure this 1-2 in length with tape as well. 

Step 5:

Next, you will have to heat your coil. Take a heat gun, and heat each inch of the coil for about 2 minutes continuously turning the coil. Make sure you don't bring the heat gun within 1-3 inches of the coil or you may risk burning your techflex. Once you are done, we recommend waiting 1-24 hours before unraveling your coil. 

Step 6:

Once you are done waiting for the coil to cool, remove the tape and slide it off the rod. 

Step 7:

You can start on either end of the cable, but in this case, we will start on the UBS-A end. You are going to want to strip the outer jacket of the exposed USB wire. This will reveal a shielding and 4 conductors. Pull the wire shielding and foil shielding back and cut that off. Now you should only see your 4 conductors. Take your 28 awg wire stripper, and strip about 1 cm of each conductor. Repeat from the begging of this step for the other side. 

Step 8:

Take your soldering iron and heat it up to 300-400 degrees Celsius. You then want to tin your individual conductors. If you do not know how to do this, please watch videos online. After tinning the conductors, you want to tin each pad on the USB-A Connector. 

Step 9:

Attach the 4 conductors to their corresponding pads on the USB-A Connector. Please refer to the pinout diagram at the bottom of this page.

Step 10:

Attach the USB-A Housing around the connector. You will hear a click if you successfully put it on. You then need to clamp the 3 prongs on the bottom of the housing. 

Step 11:

Repeat steps 7-10 for the USB-C side.

 

Step 12:

Test your cable before putting on the heat shrink, this will allow you to fix any errors.  If you receive a message on your computer like "Power surge", your cable is experiencing a short. In this case, the code is youwin in all caps. You will need to double-check your solder connections now. If you would like help finding the error, go to our discord and send some photos. We would be happy to help. 

Step 13:

If your cable works well. Take your final 2 pieces of heat shrink, and slide them onto the device and host side connectors. Shrink them onto the housings.

You are now done! Enjoy your new cable, and don't forget to send us some pictures on the discord! 

Pinout Diagrams

USB A

Male Side Aviator

Micro USB

USB%20A%20Diagram_edited.png
Micro%20USB%20Diagram_edited.png
Copy of Copy of Aviator Colors.png

White

Green

USB C

Female Side Aviator

Mini USB

USB%20C%20Diagram_edited.png
Mini%20USB_edited.png
Copy of Copy of Aviator Colors.png